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Please note that the following repairs are a
compiled list of suggestions from our years of experience behind the
counter, talking to people just like you. Success of the
finished product has many factors in home repairs. Original
condition of the material and expertise level of the
"repairman" are the two major factors. If you are
uncomfortable with repairs or repair methods, we suggest consulting a
professional or
a technical help line such as:
1-800-USG4YOU - United States Gypsum's help center or
1-800-NATIONAL - National Gold Bond's help center.
1. How do I fix cracks in walls?
2. How do I patch old plaster?
3. Why are there different kinds of drywall compounds?
4. Does it matter what kind of "drywall I use"?
5. Can you plaster over drywall?
6. How do I tape my drywall joints?
7. How do I patch a hole in drywall?
8. What kind of drywall do I use for ceilings?
9. How do I repair nail pops?
How do I fix cracks in walls?
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 | The most widely used method of fixing
cracks in plaster or drywall is to "V" out the
crack with a tool such as a can opener (the ones you use for
tomato juice). This is assuming that the plaster/drywall is
sound and still attached solidly. |
| Use a positive set compound such as USG's Durabond or
Solid Product's Sudden Bond and a small trowel (margin trowel) or
putty knife to force the mixed compound into the "V" created
earlier. Note: Always follow the mixing instructions by the
manufacturer for best results. |
| It is very difficult to exactly match the
old plasters texture or a drywall texture, but some hints are: for
a sand finish, some try to blend the repaired area in with a sand
texture paint. For a smooth finish, please take your time while
applying the compound. Some light sanding may be required if
excess compound is used, and for a "textured" wall use
your imagination (such as a small paint brush, a rag or stipple
brush) to try to create
the same texture as the original while the compound is still in a
semi-cured state. |
| Prime the repaired area and repaint wall
and blend the repaired area as best as possible. |
How do I patch old plaster
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| Plaster, like drywall, is a
"system", using a substrate, a base coat and a finish
coat. To make the best repair this system should be
emulated, meaning, that if possible the same type of materials should
be used. Note: curing times for plaster products vary due to
environment conditions, product type and application
thickness. |
| For small holes such as door knob hits and
assuming the substrate, blue board or lathe material, is sound (if
the substrate is broken, repair as
needed first. Substrate: Blue Board, Plaster board, wood or metal
Lathe):
A. For thin coat plaster (each of two layers are
about the thickness of a dime), using a small trowel or putty
knife, reapply base coat (Kal-Kote base coat or Imperial base is suggested however
a positive set compound such as Durabond or Sudden Bond can be
used) to the original thickness. Allow proper curing time
according to package instructions. After base is cured, use the
same trowel or putty knife to apply the finish coat (Kal-Kote sand
texture, smooth texture finish or Imperial Diamond is suggested), feathering the
edges to make a smooth transition from the patch area to the
original finish. Using
Durabond or Sudden Bond for both the base and finish coat can be
done, but remember, you are not emulating the original system.
This will negate the manufacturer warranty.
B. For full coat plaster (the stuff in the older houses).
Clean patch area of all loose base and finish coat materials down
to the lathe (substrate). Using Gypsolite plaster or
Structolite, apply the
base coat to the same thickness as the original base coat (usually
around 3/8") leaving room to apply the finish coat to
maintain a flush repair area in comparison to the rest of the
wall. When the base has set (please read products
instructions), apply appropriate finish coat (Kal-smooth, Kal-texture
or Diamond finish).
Prime and repaint wall. |
Why are there
different kinds of drywall compounds?
| Primarily the different kinds of compounds
are directly associated to the job they perform. |
| A positive set or all purpose compound is
designed to be used in the first coat (tape embedding) of drywall
finishing, or in setting trims such as corner beads or the various
flexible trim beads available, such as Paper Face Tape-on Bead, No
Coat Beads, and Vinyl Trim-Tex or Vinyl Corp. Characteristics are: Higher
adhesion, harder, more difficult to sand and less shrinkage. |
| The lightweight or topping compounds are
designed for the second and third coat of the taping process.
Characteristics are: Lightweight, easier to sand, a more
"workable" compound. |
| Note: positive set or all purpose
compounds are the preferred compound for decorative texturing of
walls or ceilings because of the strength and adhesion benefits. |
Does it matter what
kind of board I use?
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| The simple answer is YES? For
an explanation of each kind of board goto TYPES
OF BOARD . |
| Board usage on ceilings may be one of the
most confusing areas to explain but lets try to make sense of it:
1.) 16" on center joists.
1/2" board is acceptable (plaster board
included), however,
1/2" High Strength (drywall), 1/2" Sag Resistant
(drywall) or 5/8" (drywall and plaster board) is
suggested. Two factors to consider: local fire rating code
and insulation use. If you plan on putting over 6" of
insulation in the ceiling you may want to consider going to
5/8", 1/2" High Strength or 1/2" Sag Resistant
board to minimize the sag factor, this in turn will help limit
call backs and future problems. For meeting fire code
ratings please check your local building code requirements.
2.) 24" on center joists.
1/2" high strength, 1/2" sag
resistant or 5/8" board (including plaster board) is acceptable. Once again,
local fire rating codes may dictate 5/8" or otherwise to meet
the building codes of your area. Please check your local
building code requirements.
3.) Laminating over an existing ceiling:
1/4" or 3/8"
drywall/plaster board can be used to laminate over an old ceiling.
To do this properly, the board hanger must still screw into the
ceiling joists. As a helpful hint, consider using drywall
construction adhesive such as Ohio Sealants #38 or Miracle
Adhesive and laminating screws in the field (the
space between the joists) to minimize sagging. |
Can
you Plaster over Drywall?
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| Yes! The major difference between
drywall and plaster board is the absorption rate of the paper used
on the face of the board. Plaster board has a higher
absorption rate than drywall. The down side to using drywall
for plaster is that the base coat will remain "wet" for
a longer period of time. |
| Note: Green Board or Moisture
Resistant board should not be used for plaster due to the
intentional nature of the board to resist moisture absorption.
Link to Types of Board |
| Do not turn the drywall backwards for
plaster application! The finish paper of the board only
wraps around the backside for a short distance. Very often this
strip is not completely glued down and when plaster is applied
will get wet and the seams may show badly or begin to pop up in
spots. |
How
do I Tape My Drywall Joints?
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How
do I patch a hole in Drywall?
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| For very small holes (diameter of a
quarter or smaller), a positive set compound such as Durabond or
Sudden Bond can be used. If needed, use two coats and sand
smooth. |
| For larger holes (door knobs, chair hits,
etc.), using a sharp utility knife, trim the broken area back to
form a clean, uniform square or rectangle. Slide a block of
wood inside the wall and secure to one edge of the cut out
lengthwise, leaving 1/2 of the wood block visible. Drywall
screw this into place. Continue this process until all 4 edges
have this "backing" block of wood. Cut your
replacement piece of drywall to fit the trimmed out hole - set
into hole and screw to visible wood blocks. Tape and finish
as normal (see How Do
I Tape Drywall Joints for Taping Methods). |
| Note: Two handy items on the market
is called an Instaback or Drywall Frog and Straight Flex Patches
from Confirm Int'l. These items are designed to to assist in
the repair of holes. The Drywall Frogs come in two
sizes, 1/2" and 5/8". They are inexpensive and
they work well! |
How
do I repair nail pops?
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| Nail pops are one of the easiest
repairs to do. The first thing that needs to be done is to
reset the nail (i.e. the head of the nail should be slightly
recessed). This can be done with the rounded end of a screw
driver or a ball peen hammer, tap lightly until nail head is
recessed into a small dimple, but do not break the paper or
through the board. Next step is to take a small putty knife
(a 2" or 3" blade works well) and a small amount of your
favorite drywall compound. Using the swiping motion of an
"X" (meaning, swipe from left to right, then from top to
bottom) fill dimple level with compound. It is possible that
you may have to fill the hole twice. The first time may
shrink, requiring more compound to be added. Sand smooth,
prime and repaint the wall. |
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